Tuesday, May 31, 2011

A Day Of Rest- May 29

We went to the underground mall at Maidan Nezalezhnosti to have lunch at the food court. There was McDonald's, Mcfoxy, Chinese, sushi, a coffee shop, and a few other places. We ate Ukrainian food including, rice with pork, potatoes, shish-kabob, mushrooms with onions, kiev cutlet, and a Greek salad. It was actually Greek week at the restaurant. Afterward we went for a stroll around the mall. Some things at the mall seem overpriced. At the Adidas store were a pair of shoes same as Liliya bought for the trip except in a different color, were priced at about $90. We paid $30 on clearance in US, but even before they went on clearance they were only price around $60. At the book store we bought a couple Ukrainian children's books for my sister to have for her summer reading program at the library, Snow White and the Little Mermaid.








Meta Bank, not a real bank?



This weekend was a celebration of Kiev's birthday, so there seemed to be a lot of events scheduled around it that included music.



In the evening we attended a service at a Svyatosheno church, where Lilya went as a child. It was for me (lily) kind of surreal, as many places we've visited, they feel very familiar yet distant and new. Since it was Sunday we took it easy, did not even brought our "real" camera along, and after the church service went to the park.



































Oh, and we watched some Ukrainian TV, for research purposes, a lot of american reality shows translated, such as Myth Busters. Several music channels that actually played music videos.

Monday, May 30, 2011

Saturday- May 28

Since we don't have a coffee maker we started the day off at a coffee shop, plus that's where we map out our day and upload the blog. Today we wanted to explore the contemporary art scene in Kiev with a few other stops along the way. We walked down to St Volodymyrs Cathedral. I (Lilya) have fond memories visiting the cathedral during my childhood, the mesmerizing scent of incense and wax candles.





We snapped a few shots inside, before being directed toward a corner where we can pay for permission to take pictures as well as a prayer.





There is not much graffiti, what we've seen is definitely not anything good. Mostly there are sprayed scribbles and tags, so the Einstein atom bomb cloud stood out.


















Walking through the park across from Kiev's University of Taras Shevchenko we stopped and got a nice glass of kvas that was on tap. It is by far the best kvas we've had yet.





At the M17 Contemporary Art Center was a show of Italian art, Transavanguardia; the work that stood out was a few pastel drawings by Francesco Clemente. Not a very exciting show overall but the space is nice. We were the only visitors there and were closely followed by the guard, so pictures were out of question.





Walking back up Krasnoarm'ska St towards Besarabsky rinak (market), there seems to be kiosks on every corner, an equivalent of a small convenience store but some are more specialized. Art Ukraine is a local art magazine that David spotted at one kiosk. So we decided to look at it over pizza.





The restaurant Mafia specialized in Italian food and sushi. Sushi is very popular here but we went for pizza, we ordered 4-cheese, it had a very thin crust but not crispy, very little sauce and grapes. It was an experiment for us and by far a very odd item.





Our next destination greeted us with a line we didn't expect at PinchukArtCentre. We planned to attend a talk about Olafur Eliasson's work, who's show "Your emotional future" recently opened at the center, and apparently is extremely well received based on a half an hour line we waited in. As time came close to the talk, Lilya asked if we can go in, and were let in a bit ahead of the line. There are metal detectors at the entrance, no photography allowed, so we had to (very hesitantly) check in our camera bag and all the gallery attendants look like personal body guards. The talk was just an introduction of the show to the public attended by maybe 25 ppl. It introduced the concept of contemporary public art without the monument such as Eliasson's work and his intent for this show. The viewers were invited to experience it as a walk through the garden. The top floor showcased part of a permanent collection, which were all blue chip artists (Hirst, Koons, Murakami) and few Ukrainian artists.











Then we walked over to Besarabsky rinak, an indoor market, where vendors sell meats, produce, and other. We bought: red currant, baklava and salo.





Then we've spent an evening on Kheshatic St, a main street in Kiev that was closed to car traffic, with thousands of people out enjoying themselves, so we people watched. Purses for men are extremely popular, most have small shoulder bags that look like camera bags.

















Parking is pretty much anywhere your car can fit. Mostly on the sidewalks, at least partially on, is how everyone parks. Backing up to parallel park is non existent it seems.











Fluff from poplar trees float in the air all the time outside our windows.






Sunday, May 29, 2011

Friday- May 27


We started our day with coffee and eclairs at a nearby coffee shop and planed our day using free wifi. Before embarking on our trip we tried to find information on using an iPhone without phone service but only on wifi. There are so many online forums that have answers but none that know what they're talking about. With the iPhone 3GS on airplane mode and wifi on, wifi works fine and even the gps works for maps and picture exif tags. Best thing is, the maps stay in the memory and can be easily used for navigation. One difficulty we found was addresses sometimes don't show up in google maps even when searched in Cyrillic.




The Andriivs'kyi descent was our first chosen destination. Lining the cobblestone street all the way down were venders selling paintings, needlepoints, old war paraphernalia, and other knickknacks.









On our way through the park along the Dnipro's bank, we stopped for a treat, Lily's favorite ice cream. The park is amazing as with venders selling all kinds of refreshments, including espresso on every corner. We walked by amusement rides, overlooks, outdoor theater, soccer stadium, and the puppet theater. The atmosphere was relaxed, even with lots of kids out celebrating their graduation. The park in Kiev overlooking the river bank make Central Park seem kind of silly. Along the river the park is like a cross between the Blue Ridge Parkway and Central Park.




















The culture mix of pre-soviet, soviet and post-soviet can be seen to influence and come together in unique instances, including clothing choices of each generation. The frequent use of English language in written and spoken. Although it is customary during a monetary transaction to place money down on a counter rather than handing directly, the newer coffee shop counters are designed to hand money across.









We got tickets to see a puppet show at the The Academy Theater of Puppets, an interpretation of the Divine Comedy, it was interesting but not very good.
























An evening stroll after the play, down to Khreshchatyk, by the Opera house on our way back to the apartment. So far we feel safe walking around the city, and overhear American tourists often.



Saturday, May 28, 2011

First Full Day- May 26

So, we were up early. The plan was to: exchange currency, buy train tickets to Moscow, go to a grocery store, eat, and then visit the neighborhood where Lilya grew up. On a walk the night before we went to the Maydan Nezaleznosti where banks are on every corner, so we assumed it would be easy to exchange money. At the first bank after we waited longer than we should, the teller told us rudely that she was with a client. At the second bank the security officer basically told us it was too much of a hassle and we should go to the underpass, but they were closed since it was only 9:30. Then we went to yet another bank that told us to go around the corner to Activ-Bank, it was a simple exchange. Next train tickets. It really helps knowing the language. We found the travel agency by being referred by another agency who's sign stated that they sold train tickets but didn't.




Booked the tickets but despite the visa sign on the door we had to go get cash and could not pay with a card. Got tickets and hrivnas ($1=7.99UAH), the adventure became more enjoyable.

We found a little grocery store not far from our flat. It has all the basics, so we got some bread, cheese, kielbasa, English breakfast tea and pel'meni (Russian variant of meat ravioli).




We were looking forward to eating the pel'meni but with no matches for the stove had butterbrod ( sandwich ).




Now off to the Metro and Nivki (area where Lily grew up). We entered at Zolotie Vorota station where the two escalators seem to descend forever at 25 mph, very awesomely scary.




The metro is fairly busy with people pushing and running, the personal bubble enjoyed in the States is nonexistent in the public transport here. It was especially startling to David, being pushed on all sides.




Revisiting the park near the house, the place where the house used to be, my childhood friends Natasha and Sveta was emotional, both sad and happy.



































It was a great day. Then we came home and fell asleep at 8:30.